Square Ledge is a nice, small, quiet ledge that offers many basic beginner leads on face and a nice lead in a notch to a chimney. At the top of the rock, you have excellent views of Mount Washington. Though it is an uphill hike to get to the base of the climbs, it is not a long hike. If you have only a half of a day to climb, you can still get in and out with a few climbs in if you start early.
The second edition of the Ed Webster does not list Square Ledge, but the third edition does. The book dedicates five pages to this area, two pages are pictures. This speaks of how small of a climbing area it is, yet for its size, it has some very nice climbs.
On a disappointing note, climbing schools tend to use this cliff and hang many top ropes on the cliff though there are few climbs. This may prevent you from climbing here after a long hike.
When we climb at Square Ledge, we park at the Pinkham Lodge parking lot at the base of Mount Washington, and cross the street to a trail head.
Please note this is for reference only. Do not email requesting reservations.
Places to Stay
Harvard Low Cabin
Not elegant, but does the job
near the base of Mount Washington
Glen Ellis Campground
wooded and river sites
Rt. 302, Box 397
Green Meadow Camping
Family camping with cable TV hookups
Rt. 16, Box 246
Barnes Field Group
Mid-May to mid-October by reservation, some spots in winter
603 466-2721 general info
603 466-2727 reservations
Places to Eat
Appalachian Mountain Club
Base of Mount Washington
Rt. 16, Gorham
The Red Parka
Other Area Information
Coin operated showers at Pinkham Lodge at the base of Mount Washington on Rte 16 in Gorham
Hiking in this area is fabulous. There are several hiking trails on Mount Washington if you like strenuous. For shorter hikes, try the Glen Boulder trail (off of rte. 16).
Mount Washington Site